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2017-07-22 Initial Wiring Routing



Step one... determine desired farkle positions... GPS, radar detector, voltmeter, and Rowe Electronics power distribution box.

Step two... route the wires. Gotta be careful with this step lest you do it over and over again...

The Rowe box sites nicely in this position. And since I don't want to consume ALL the room in the center box area, here is a good location. AND, I like plenty of service loop in my wiring.

Here is where the Admore rear light bar harness will plug and play.

Thinking of using these Posi trailer connectors. They are waterproof, snap together firmly and would make any servicing a snap. Designed for being in the harsh exterior world, they should survive under the seat just fine.


Kinda liking this. Time will tell.

Another view.

Last pic. I wonder if this routing will last or if I'll change it..

To be Continued....

2017-12-06 Final Wiring Under Seat

I gave up on using the Rowe Electronics fuse box. It's a nice unit, but.. always the but... it only distributes power leads. Somewhere, grounds have to connect. And the BlueSeas box does that. Elegeantly simple, relatively small, and it fits perfectly into the recessed area of the plastic pan.

And I learned that if you connect a postive wire directly to  ground a fuse WILL blow. What I did not know is that when a modern fuse blows, it illuminates! Coolio!

Top view. Relay marked by label '87' powered from tail light wire. I used car audio amplifier power wire from battery via 50 amp circuit breaker to provide power. 

Overview shot. The black connector at top is a PosiTap trailer connector. Left of it is the programmable delay relay for the aux tank fuel pump. I programmed it for 30 minutes run time before auto shutdown. Because I always forget. The ty-rap at middle right is for the seat release as I run a Russel DayLong.

The battery compartment. Unlike KrZy8, I'm not stacking multiple connections on the battery terminals. 

More to come...


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